Journeying Within In Borobudur
When Google photos reminded me of our trip two years ago to Indonesia and Bali, it made me reflect on how much had changed since. And yet, with time (and travel) frozen during the pandemic, my memories of that trip were surprisingly fresh as if it were yesterday. I can still recall the feelings as I climbed the majestic Borobudur, tracing the path that monks and spiritual practitioners had taken since around 800 AD when it was built.
Borobudur was intended as a pilgrimage site for practitioners of Mahayana Buddhism. Built by the Sailendra Dynasty that ruled Java at the time, it is said to have been envisioned by Gunadharma, a monk from Nepal.
The monument is shaped like a mandala. One has to enter from the east side and circumambulate the structure in a clockwise direction, before climbing the steep steps to the next level. And ascending to the top is truly a spiritual experience as I realized.
The base of the monument, known as kamadhatu, represents the world of desires and their karmic consequences, as evidenced by a few open carvings. Most of the carvings at this level are covered up by stones, most likely by the builders themselves to add stability to the structure once the upper levels were built.
The next five levels represent the rupadhatu, or the world of forms. These concentric terraces are enclosed by an outer balustrade, and both the outer and inner walls have elaborate carvings that depict stories from Buddha’s life, and from Buddhist parables such as the Jataka Tales (a recollection of Buddha’s past lives).
The final set of steep steps lead to an open, expansive summit. The 72 stupas at the summit and the central solid stupa together represent the arupadhatu, or the world of formlessness.
These 72 stupas, each enclosing a statue of the Buddha, are arranged in three concentric circles. Our guide had pointed out that while the outer two circles of stupas have a diamond-shaped hole, those in the innermost circle have a square hole. Since a square is a more stable shape than a diamond, this symbolizes a fortifying of one’s inner self. And at the center, is a solid stupa with no statues, representing the complete dissolution into nothingness — the attainment of oneness or nirvana.
As I walked around the summit, taking in the vast landscape flanked by mountains and volcanoes, I recall a deep sense of peace and happiness, a feeling of oneness with all creation.
I could not have imagined that feeling when I had stood at the base of the monument a few hours earlier. Perhaps that is the essence of the inner journey. Until we embark on it, we do not know what to expect. With each step we take, we slowly chip away at the filters we view the world with until we finally reach the unmanifested source. From the summit, one cannot see the levels below — it is as if those, while a part of the inner journey, are no longer needed as reminders.
We had arrived just before sunset and soaked in the beautiful color palette that took shape before our eyes.
